On the Trail Poachers Who Illegally Snare China's Rare Wild Birds.
The conservationist's vision darts across vast expanses of open meadows, hunting for any movement in the inky blackness.
He utters less than a whisper as we try to find a place of cover in the grasslands. In the distance, the sprawling city of Beijing remains asleep. As we wait, the only sound is our own breath.
And then, as the sky turns a shade lighter ahead of sunrise, we hear footsteps. The poachers are here.
Caught
Overhead, a multitude of winged travelers, many so small that they could rest in the cup of a hand, are traveling to the south for winter.
They have benefited from the long summer days in Siberia, or Mongolia, consuming bugs and berries. As the year winds down and icy winds bring the initial freeze of winter, they head to southern locales to breed and eat.
The nation hosts 1500-plus bird species, which is about thirteen percent of the planet's species – over eight hundred of those are birds that migrate. Four of the nine major flyways they follow converge in China.
The patch of grassland in question, on the outskirts of the Chinese capital, is an oasis for small birds – any further and the urban landscape offer scant chance to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "mist nets", so fine you can barely see them.
A net we almost encountered was strung across a large section of the field and supported with bamboo poles. At its center, a meadow pipit was fighting hard to free his legs, but the more it struggled, the more its claws became tangled.
It was a meadow pipit, a species under protection in China, and an important "bio-indicator" – meaning if its population is healthy, so is its environment.
Tracking the Trappers
Silva, who is in his 30s, does this work for free using his personal funds. He has forgone many nights of sleep to release trapped birds, and he has spent the last 10 years urging the police in Beijing to prioritize this issue.
"In the early days, there was little interest," he states.
So he enlisted helpers who did care and formed a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He organized public meetings and invited the leaders of the local police and forestry bureau. These small and persistent acts of persuasion have shown results. The police discovered that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in identifying other kinds of illegal operations.
"It became clear our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, adding the caveat that enforcement is still patchy.
Silva's love of birds started in childhood. He was raised in the 1990s in a much changed capital.
He recalls wandering in the grasslands on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Industrialization brought a huge influx of rural workers to cities. This rapid urbanisation meant grasslands were seen as areas for development, not conservation areas to conserve.
The change stunned Silva. The grasslands started disappearing, as did the wildlife they housed.
"I made the choice back then to work in conservation and I chose this direction," he says.
This has not made for an simple journey. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers found out he was under scrutiny by Silva and fought back.
"He gathered several of his associates who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva recalls. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not brought to justice.
He has also lost his team of helpers over the years. This work demands patience and night vigils. Silva says few people are prepared for the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to address this major issue, you must devote yourself wholeheartedly. You cannot be half-hearted."
He says donations covers some of the costs – over 100,000 yuan annually – but donations have dipped because of the economic situation.
So he has developed new ways to hunt the hunters.
He studies satellite imagery to find the routes worn away by the poachers. He maps those against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can catch scores of small birds at night.
"Certain prized species command a premium," Silva says. "In big cities like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to own songbirds are now quite wealthy."
Although there are environmental regulations in place, Silva argues the fines to deter the activity do not outweigh the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a status symbol. This originates from the imperial era. Nobles and elites would build ornate bamboo cages to display their birds.
It's a tradition that persists mainly among older individuals in their later years. Silva says some elderly citizens don't realise they are committing a wildlife crime, or understand that so many more birds were killed in a trap so they could buy a pet.
"These individuals didn't even have enough to eat growing up. Now with some disposable income, they have inherited the practice of caging birds," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was no time to educate people about ecology. Once adults' values are formed, they're really hard to change."
Disrupted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a trader has several small cages with tiny twittering birds.
Another man stands outside a local market holding a bird cage covered by a black veil. He tells passers-by discreetly that his songbird is rare, worth nearly 1900 yuan.
This is a glimpse of an traditional side of the city where small unofficial traders have established a niche trade.
The path by the river stretches for several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were shoppers browsing everything from vintage jewellery to dentures.
We were told that wild songbirds could be purchased in a nearby green space. The location was not concealed.
Music was blasting from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were performing a fan dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had gathered with bird cages – some had two or three in their hands. Most were covered in black fabric.
But on this occasion there would be no sales because the police had appeared. They were questioning the bird owners and taking names. Unyielding, one man said he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his